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ILM Predicts the Autumn/Winter Fashion Trends

An enormous versatility is signalized by the season autumn/winter 2008-09 : there is Neo Classic beside Romanticism, Bohemian and Hippie, Couture and Layer Look, Neo Sportswear beside High Tech Glam. One common thing can be seen as binding element: high quality and refinement in material and production and an affection for details. Thus, in spite of all the multitude, there is one topic pooling the looks of the coming autumn/winter season: STRONG ATTITUDE.

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Digitalism
The key looks of the season are: chic and cool – simple and sophisticated – glamorous and sensuous – feminine and masculine – sportive and elegant. The play with volume is being continued: narrow silhouettes in combination with voluminous coats or box-shaped jackets, and the volumes can be seen in a controlled way like for example a high waist-line in particular accentuation. Clear cuts in combination with discreet details bring about an elegant look with a neo-couture touch. Brilliance and metallic effects provide technical qualities and an adequate portion of sportivity that is often used as contrast in combination with woolly | hairy effects.

 

There is an unequalled variety of shapes: casual knitwear dresses from mini to maxi, narrow cigarette-style pants beside bell bottoms and Marlene pants up to knickerbockers. Designed tulipshaped skirts next to pencil skirts and supple jersey layerings.

The colours of the season are of a fascinating variety: reaching from strictly monochrome colour pictures, also in glaring red, grass green or deep blue to more decent and darker colours with fir-green, dark violet as well as nocturnal blue up to clear black| white | grey contrasts.

Thus 4 key topics can be expressed for the ”Supreme” that reflect the variety of the season:

  • Future Tradition
  • Graceful Bohème
  • Sculptured deLuxe
  • Galaxy Riders

 

As the Dynamic Vibes also bears other influences from the music culture and the sports fashion there is a congruence with the major trends but also contrasting streams to be considered.

Resulting are the following key topics:

  • Digitalism
  • Urban Drifters
  • Carnaby Street
  • Dark Fiction

 

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Sophisticated strictness
Colour themes

 

Neo Tradition

sophisticated, modern, authentic, self-evident - Tradition meets modernity: inconspicuous and authentic colours for a winterly modern atmosphere

Ivory, mahogany, ebony, saddle-brown, royal blue, imperial red combined with noble metallics like gold bronze and red-gold

 

Freedom

Unconstrained, experimental, self-confident

A world of colours that allows unusual combinations almost like accidentally bringing the individual colours in a new context:

Fir-green, violet, candy-pink, clouds-grey, brilliant yellow – all of them also in metallic design combined with matt and warm tones of bark like oak-brown or birch-white.

 

Bauhaus

Straight, sculptural, expressive

A subtle colourfulness derived from modern architecure that emphasizes the clear shaping:

concrete-grey, marble-black, plaster-white accentuated by sulphuryellow, matt violet, YvesKleinBlue.

 

Stardust | Galaxy

Cool, monochrome, brilliant

Colours as if taken down from a cosmic star: unreal and real at the same time:

moondust-grey, Saturn-yellow, Venus-red, Mars-green, galactic blue, also star-white, anthracite and brilliant black

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Relaxed modernism
SUPREME

Future Tradition

 

Mood

Straight Attitude, Neo Chic, relaxed Modernism

Tradition in new interpretation – style in new definition – rustic style meets city chic – elegance with a touch of irony.

Look

Opulent volumes and new lengths for knitwear and shirts in combination with narrow pants or leggings, superwide trousers and maxi skirts with short and strictly-cut jackets, roughly knit jumpers and –jackets as well as capes with narrow cigarette-shaped pants, also in brilliant coating. Blazer and jackets in lumberjack pattern combined with uni-coloured slacks and maxi skirts, knitwear jackets with duffle buttons and narrow suit trousers.

New combinations of casual and formal, matt with brilliant, woolly with metallic lustre. Trenchcoat variations with and without belt in new proportions.

The key material is knitwear reaching from fine to coarse and often with traditional patterns like braiding or rhombs that are used very intensively. In addition some flat and shiny textiles as well as wool variations from felted to fluffily soft.

Look | male

New volumes with slightly shifted proportions: slim single- or double-breasted suits in combination with oversized trousers, cardigans as substitute for jackets, Scottish highland mixed with urban chic

Bags

Large-format shoppers in vertical or horizontal shape. Handbags with short, compact grips, supple shoulder bags in material mix, multi-pocket flap bags with broad shoulder straps. The surfaces appear oily, imprinted or waxed, mostly matt or with embossed structures and partial or extensive braidings. Material contrasts like felt and lacquer, canvas and leather, smooth leather and velours. Braidings for shoulder straps and grips – for the rest decoration is restrictive and discreet.

Bags | male

Travelling-bag formats and weekend-bags for urban use.Large-sized hunting- and flap bags in leather-canvas combinations as well as in oiled leather, narrow business briefcases with smooth or imprinted surfaces and ingenious locks in tarnished metal.

Colours

ivory, mahogany, ebony, saddle-brown, royal blue, imperial red combined with noble metallic like gold bronze and red-gold

 

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Sculptured modernity
Graceful Bohème

 

Mood

Jazzy Freedom, Gypsy Feeling, distressed Rebellion

Freedom in any respect – border-crossing boldness, artistical

eccentricity – inviduality as a form of style.

Look

Draping clothes also worn over pants, Marlene pants with spencer jackets and long ribbon blouses. Flared pants reaching from slight flares to extreme widths, casual tops with draping elements, also layerings. Blouses in most various lengths – here classic there playful with frills or ribbon collars.

Woollen short coats in A-shape beside spencer jackets and masculine jacket types. Lamb velours jackets in a new length. The informal play with various lengths is defining the style for this look – extremely short to extremely long, mini to maxi, layering of different lengths. The influences derive from the 20s and 70s – the new mix creates an artful style- and pattern mixture.

Look | male

Leisurely Gabban shapes in combination with bootcut slacks and shirts with abstractly floral designs, narrow leather jackets in combinations with coarse knitwear and narrow trousers – a perfectly styled nonchalance.

Bags

Medium-sized to oversized pouches, well with fringes or metal trimming, large-format supple pochettes with uneven surfaces by imprintings or pleats | frills, decorative doctor bags from tiny to medium, also in antique finish and matching metal decorations, patchwork and fur applications, plastic strings as shoulder straps and over-sized locks in metal or plastic stand for modernity. Metal trimmings and rivets of any shape and size look aged, blackened and give the ‘extra something’ of the look.

Bags | male

High-size shoppers of washed and matt smooth leather, city-weekend bags also high-size in variable volumes, multipocket shoppers and doctor bags with slight patina and aged metal parts.

Colours

Fir-green, violet, candy-pink, clouds-grey, brilliant yellow – all of them also in metallic design combined with matt and warm tones of bark like oak-brown or birch-white

 

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Space travellers
Sculptured Luxe

 

Mood

Sculptural, elegant, ingenious

clearly defined silhouettes are characterized by an almost geometric design vocabulary emphasizing couture

Look

Common to all the lines starting from „H“ to „O“ up to „X“ are sharp contours for the silhouette. Shoulders are accentuated by mutton sleeves or shoulder lines in the style of the 40s – found with costume jackets, blazers and coats. The pants are straight or slightly flared. The skirts vary from pencil shape to tulip- or balloon shape, the waists are narrow and emphasized by broad belts. The coats are sculptural in woolly materials. The cut designs are ingenious and refer to Couture elements of past years. The materials are flat and firm reaching from matt to brilliant, volume is achieved by plaits and the art of cutting. Hats, gloves, and belts bring about the refined design of the looks.

Look | male

Umbrella, charm and bowler hat: straight and sharply-cut suits with slim revers and strait pleated trousers

Bags

Clutch bags in a big variety and all possible shapes: tiny to XXL accompanied by supple, big-format pochettes in softly gleaming leather types, tiny purses on long shoulder straps and strings, and solid, clearly defined balloon-, rectangular- and circle shapes. On top of that: sculptural shoppers. The leather is the crème de la crème: ostrich, snake, croco, and also ray leather.

Also soft Nappa with surfaces that are quilted, plaited, wadded and partly blistered. We also see extremely firm and stable material. Grips are round or oval often made of metal in gold or

silver emphasizing the sculptural character.

Bags | male

Weekend-bags and sports bags formats deLuxe: croco designs beside lacquered surfaces, bowling bags with shoulder straps, narrow business briefcases brightly polished and conference briefcases in most elegant leather.

Colours

concrete-grey, marble-black, plaster-white accentuated by sulphur yellow, matt violet, YvesKleinBlue.

 

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Galaxy riders
Galaxy Riders

 

Mood

Hypermodernity, futurism, form shows function | form follows function

Tomorrow is yesterday, the day after tomorrow is already today

Look

Now as before super-narrow shapes are in the fore – beside the play with controlled volumes: futuristic-looking strait suits and costumes, narrow and wadded nylon jackets in combination with stretch overalls, cigarette-shaped trousers with short, box-shaped jackets. Coats are to be seen with voluminous capes or collars with hidden hoods – the waist is still accentuated.

The materials vary from Cool Wool with even and partly brilliant surfaces up to intensively shining techno qualities mostly in quilted design – giving the look a touch of space shuttle traveller.

Look | male

Shining and wadded multi-pocket nylon jackets in powerful colours with narrow JetPants, narrow-cut polo-neck pullovers with very narrow drainpipes and wide, cape-shaped lumberjacks in nylon of a wet look: a play with matt | shining , wide | narrow

Bags

Big and soft pouches conveying the impression as if they were “all of a piece” as contrast to the plain pochettes with tone on tone details; straightlined, futuristic shoulder bags in high size or horizontal format. The focus here is the interaction of material and shape.

Hightech materials as well as lacquered or metallized leather surfaces set the tone. Decorative elements, if at all existing, subordinate to the material and barely contrast in colours.

Bags | male

Hypermodern „hard shell“ notebook bags as well as messenger bags made of neoprene or ballistic nylon in combination with leather. Ultra-shining leather for weekend-bags or men’s city bags in horizontal format with or without shoulder straps.

Colours

Cool, monochrome, brilliant

Colours as if taken down from a cosmic star: unreal and real at the same time:

moondust-grey, Saturn-yellow, Venus-red, Mars-green, galactic blue, also star-white, anthracite and brilliant black

 

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Carneby street
DYNAMIC VIBES

 

Digitalism

Pixel works – in the true sense: graphic allover prints in digital colour spectrum for Tees, Sweats, jackets and even pants – patterns reaching from micro patterns to maxi patterns causing retinal flickering, in addition allover coloured denims. The tops are voluminous, the trousers narrow to skinny. Hot pants and mini skirts are combined with leggings.

Bags

DJ bags, nylon shoulder bags, patterned rucksacks. Allover prints on messenger bags, bump bags. Small casket bags at long strings, large-sized shoppers in lacquer design, overdimensional pochettes. Flight attendant- and sports bags in clear and brilliant colours.

Colours

White as a background for a full, energetic colourfulness of bright yellow, racing-red, grass-green, ultra-violet supplemented with black.

 

Urban Drifters

Urban time travel to the 50s and 60s, Rock’n Roll Rebellion: motorbike leather jackets in leather and nylon combined with mini skirts or straight denim pants, slogan tees and riveted belts. Bandanas, caps, white shirts, and pants at half-mast with

suspenders, patterned socks, and ”Creepers”, spencer jackets, blouses with frills and super mini skirts with polka dot leggings and lacquer pumps – the dress codes of ”rock’ a ’billy” and ”Ska” are inspiring examples.

Bags

Messenger bags, map-cases, purses on long strings, high-size shoulder bags accompanied by flap bags, rivets in all sizes and shapes, mostly in silver on black, motorbike chains and superlong strings as shoulder straps. Aged smooth and grained leather play the lead.

Colours

Black in all shades, partly complemented by lacquer-red and lacquer-white.

 

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Dark fiction
Carnaby Street
Swinging London in the New Look à la ”Pete Doherty” for Boys and Girls: young and narrow suits dressed down by Palestinian neckties, cord jackets combined with vintage denim pants, ”Grandma’s” lace blouse with ice-washed denim and patterned tights. Saharel pants with tight-fitting striped pullovers, wide coarsely knit jumpers with Marlene pants or pencil-shaped skirts.

Bags

”Oldschool“ briefcases modernized by shoulder straps, high-size flap bags, patchwork pouches and bags uni-coloured or with contrasting colours, oversized supple pouches as well as pochettes with borrowings of gone times. The materials are soft to variations in velours, also fringes, frills, and fur trimmings occur. Lacquer finish or metallized effects can be seen beside embossings and stitching.

Colours

A subdued colour story in a slight vintage appearance composed of black, brown from coffee to caramel, with occasional dots of brick-red, verdigris, and copper.

 

Dark Fiction

The dark side of the 80s – bands like ”Joy Division” and ”Bauhaus” were the inspiration for this story: dark to black nylon jackets in combination with black denim; young, double-buttoned blazers with black shirts and narrow cargo pants, wadded jackets and parkas combined with denim and brightened up by strass elements at Tees and clothes.

Bags

Multifunctional shoulder bags with a multitude of front pockets, variable sizes with the help of zippers on the sides, high-tech material beside leather and lacquer designs, also in mixture.

Metal parts are matching in colours with the materials or are even lacquered tone in tone.

Colours

Dark colouring with all shades in black, partly freshened up by accents in neon or strass.

 

Check out the spring/summer 2009 fashion trends for handbags and other leather goods at ILM in Offenbach from 25.-28.9.2008

 

(21/07/2008)

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